Finding the good in Canberra!

Moving on, slightly reluctantly from Melbourne, I headed to Canberra. Canberra is situated in an area called the Australian Capital Territory. It became the country's capital in 1911 but building and development work was a slow process continuing to the present day. The first Parliament House was completed in 1927 and Lake Burley Griffin, which the city is designed around, was completed in 1963.

I visited the National Capital Exhibition which provided me with all of this information, through interesting exhibits, photos and video presentations. I had no idea before I came to Canberra that it was designed so specifically for a purpose and that it is so recent.

Many feel Canberra hasn't got much to offer and that it lacks character. It certainly lacks historical buildings however it doesn't lack history, albeit more recent history. There are also some up and coming 'hipster' areas which might bring more backpackers in. Generally if you aren't interested in museums, history, art or hiking in the bush then there's maybe not much for you.

There are numerous museums, exhibitions and galleries most of which are free. Aside from the National Capital Exhibition, there is the Australian War Memorial Museum, which is a beautiful dome-shaped building full of names and poppies, the National Australian Museum, which is massive and has a very well-planned open space outside (ask the guides to explain it to you), each installation or structure had a meaning, and the National Gallery which is full of mostly modern art and Australian art. In this area is also the high court of Australia and the National Portrait Gallery, all of which sit on the beautiful Lake Burley Griffin.

The Old and New Parliament Houses are also landmarks not just in Canberra but Australia. The Old Parliament House is now a museum for Australian political history and democracy, while the New Parliament House which sits on a hill makes for good photos of the straight line down to the Old Parliament House, ANZAC parade, the War Memorial and lastly Mount Ainslie at the end. There are also botanic gardens and numerous national parks and city nature parks and creeks for swimming.

During my visit there was a multicultural festival, so the city was full of people. Apparently it's not normally like that. There was delicious food from many countries and music. I particularly enjoyed the aboriginal performances with their singing and dancing which imitate animals and the elements.

Canberra has a few of vegan cafés and I met two vegan girls while I was there. There was also a student atmosphere during weekdays in Civic (the main city centre) as it was the beginning of term for the universities including the well-known ANU - Australian National University. ANU runs weekly free lectures for the public. I also enjoyed a bit of eccentricity at the Phoenix pub's monthly open-mic 'poetry' evening.

Vegan cupcakes (the ones on the right half) YUM!

Vegan Melbourne

After spending Christmas and New Year with my brother on the Gold Coast of Australia, I have just spent a week in Melbourne. Vegan Melbourne. The Gold Coast was quite good for vegans, with the delicious and purse-friendly Cardamon Pod in Surfers Paradise. Their lunch deal and desserts were especially good whilst enjoying the leafy garden room style decor. Mandala Organic Arts Cafe in Broadbeach was very enjoyable on the weekend evenings, with beer available or a BYOB policy and bands playing in the background. Their pizzas (also available gluten-free) and lasagne were especially good. Unlike in the UK and Ireland, many cafés have soya milk available and even some vegan options labelled.

Melbourne however, being the 'cultural capital' of Australia, with a history of artists, musicians, dancers and poets, has a culture of passing the time in cafés on the many laneways or in the bohemian/hippie/hipster/artists area of Brunswick St in Fitzroy.  You can get there easily and cheaply from the CBD by taking the tram 86 or 96 within the free tram zone to St Vincent's Hospital, alighting here, then take a right at the hospital and then left at the church onto Brunswick Street.

If you are on a tight budget but like me, you love vintage clothing, coffee, books, food, especially vegan then your self control will be exercised! You can easily spend a day on this street trying the food, looking in the shops and enjoying the Gardens at the top, in Fitzroy North.

I visited Vegie Bar which is moderately priced but very popular. The vegan curries are great and change regularly. When I was there it was a Massaman Curry. I did a cooking class at Time for Lime on the Thai island Koh Lanta, which is vegan-friendly and we made Massaman Curry. The one at Vegie Bar came a close second to mine! We had the freshest of ingredients in Thailand and we pounded the curry paste for 30 minutes in a pestle and mortar. Anyway, their cakes looked really good too, though not so cheap.

Opposite Vegie Bar is an interesting bookshop and an entirely Vegan shop called the Cruelty Free Shop. Here you can buy anything from cooking ingredients to ready meals, caramel squares and tiffin etc, vegan alternatives to mars and snickers, soya milk and soya cheese as well as vegan shoes, wallets, bags and purses. Further up the road towards Fitzroy North is Mr Natural Pizza which unfortunately I didn't have time to try. Other vegetarian cafés on this street with plenty of vegan options are Radheys, Madame K's, Smith & Daughters, and a vegan bakery on Smith Street.

Within the city centre, or CBD, there are many non-veg cafés with soya milk and vegan cakes. There is a wholesfoods shop with vegan takeaway meals and cakes on Flinders Street, near Flinders Station. On Elizabeth Street, a 5-10 minute walk from Flinders Station and Federation Square is a vegetarian Indian restaurant called Om Vegetarian. There are two other branches of this company within Melbourne centre. I visited three times. They state on their sandwich board, ideal for backpackers, and it is. For $6.50 you get a vegetarian or vegan thali, consisting of a chickpea or lentil curry, a  potato curry, rice, pickles and a lot of nan bread. The best bit is that if you're still hungry you can ask for more, even if you do feel like Oliver Twist going back to the counter with your plate! I'll note that there are also jugs of tap water sitting out. There is also Gopals and Crossways, very close to eachother on Swanston Street. I ate at both of these cafes, which I believe are both also Hare Krishna run. The food I had was tasty, and definitely hearty and filling. Crossways provided a full meal for less than $8, including dessert, a drink, a main course and seconds if you wanted!

Of course all over Melbourne is Lord of the Fries which is a vegetarian fast food chain, also providing gluten free and vegan. These are often situated on main streets and beside train stations etc and very handy if you're in a rush! They do great milkshakes and beautiful fries with various sauces.

Lastly, a visit to St Kilda Beach rewards you with not just a beach with calm waters just 20 minutes from the city and an original amusements park from 1912 but also Sister of Soul. Here I had what was probably my tastiest meal - a tempeh stirfry with satay sauce, followed by the vegan berry cheesecake. This restaurant is quite new and moderately priced but very popular. Nearby is Crave which sells frozen yoghurt and has vegan options. There was also a gelato shop with vegan ice cream/sorbet.

 Sisters of Soul in St Kilda

There are also countless others all over Melbourne and you can find these on http://www.happycow.net/

In 10 weeks I will have just arrived in Vietnam. I have a lot of planning still to do!
Here is my route starting from Belfast: